FRAUD AND FAKERY:
Protecting Yourself &
Making Smart Purchases

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Stuart Mowbray, editor for Man at Arms magazine, recently took up the issue of fraud and fakery in his editorial column in the magazine, and it is an important topic to consider for both novices and experts alike. The two selections reproduced below give you suggestions on how to stop being a victim of fraud and fakes and how to begin making smart purchases. Copies of these magazines, which include the original editorials, can purchased off of our Back Issues page.

From Man at Arms, February/March 1998
Fake arms and armor have been around for a long time and can be very difficult to detect. If it is hard to identify an all-out fake, then it is even harder to recognize when a real gun or sword has been "Enhanced" by and expert. We have all see wonderful, although plain, pieces that have been "dolled up" with fake inscriptions, fancy grips, silver mounts, etc. And as these enhancements age, they become more and more difficult to recognize.

The entire situation is made even trickier because we, as collectors, often disagree about what is allowable. Is it OK to put a pair of pistols in a box that doesn't belong to them? How about refreshing engraving or renewing gold inlays? What about replacing beat-up grips on an otherwise mint-condition Colt? Is it acceptable to totally refinish a rare gun so that it appears to be brand new? Should we replace important missing pieces without marking them as replacements? If a gun has been altered or converted during its working life, should we replace parts in an effort to return it to factory-new condition? These are all questions that we ask ourselves every day. They are good questions to think about, even when we aren't sure of the answers.

I guess the bottom line on all this is that it is impossible for the average collector to know the whole story behind every gun that he or she buys. This is a simple reality in every field of antiques collecting from furniture to stamps. And most of the time it doesn't really matter that much because we are talking about minor details that don't add up to a lot in terms of price. The thing we need to guard against is big-time fraud, and here are some suggestions we can use to protect ourselves:

1. If the deal seem to be good to be true (like Earp guns being offered for less than half of what they should be worth), be very suspicious.
2. Ask for receipts and written provenance, if that is applicable.
3. Be wary of dealers who will not guarantee that very expensive items are genuine. Ask about the return policy if (within a reasonable amount of time) the gun is determined to be a fake. try to get this information in writing. If there is a "restocking" fee for returned items, make sure that it does not apply to fakes or items that were not described properly. The most you should be responsible for in such cases is one-way shipping.
4. If you are spending tens of thousands of dollars on a gun or sword, for goodness sake, get an outside appraisal. Appraisals cost money. but they are usually well worth it.
5. And lastly, if something goes wrong with a purchase, don't start out by getting rude and threatening with the seller. This happens a lot, and it isn't fair, because it assumes the seller tried to rip you off. This may not be true. You will find that most people are very helpful in these situations - especially when you go in with the right attitude.

From Man at Arms May/June 1998
In last issue's editorial, I discussed some different ways that collectors can protect themselves from fraud and fakery when purchasing collectible swords and firearms.

This topic is apparently struck a cord, because I was flooded with phone calls and letters from readers. These folks were unanimous in their belief that fakes and deceptive restorations have become a crippling problem in our hobby, and that the only solution is open discussion and heavy publicity of true fraud when it is discovered. These readers also had some other ideas for us to think about. Some of their suggestions are worth serious consideration:

New collectors (and even experienced ones for that matter) should do a lot of reading and studying before they make large purchases. Too many people make $1,000 mistakes because they didn't buy the $35 book.
Especially if you aren't a seasoned collector, it is often worth seeking out a dealer with a good reputation who specializes in what you want. While you will almost never get a "great deal" from a specialist dealer (because they know the true value of their stock), you aren't likely to end up with a "lemon" either. Top dealers can be thought of as filters. Their good taste and sharp eye for detail weeds out the junk, and this can be a service worth paying for.

Don't be shy about asking your friends for advice when you aren't sure about the originality of a gun or sword. Two heads are better than one.

A number of readers suggested that I included some comments about buying at auction. An increasing percentage of purchases these days are being made at auctions, rather than gun shows, and auctions involve some special considerations:

Be aware of any charges that you may be responsible for above and beyond the "hammer" price. The most important of these are usually the shipping/packing charges (if you are bidding by mail), state sales tax (if applicable), and the buyer's premium (which can add as much as 15% to the cost of your purchase).

Read, and then re-read, the "Conditions of Sale" printed in the front or back of the catalog.
Some auction houses guarantee the authenticity of the items they sell, Others are selling their lots "as is" and offer no guarantees at all.

Some auction houses guarantee their descriptions are accurate. By this, I mean the entire description. Other auction houses only guarantee the bold print at the beginning of the description. Others say that their descriptions are just opinion, and that are responsible for mistakes. Most auction houses are very helpful when their is a disputed description, but it is your job to know the rules up front.

If there is a "Glossary" that defines words used in the descriptions, read it very carefully. Subtle differences in wording can mean a lot. At many auction houses, these rules apply: "A Brown Bess Musket, 18th Century" is an original antique gun; a "A Brown Bess Musket [no date mentioned]" is an antique that has been very heavily restored or altered from its original form; and "A Brown Bess Musket in 18th-century style" means a reproduction or an all-out fake.

Most guns/swords look better in professional photos than they do in real life.

Attend the sales personally, if you can. If you have to bid by mail or phone, it may help to call the person who is in charge of the sale and ask for additional information about the lots that interest you. Many people prefer to hire a "stand-in" to examine the lots for them and bid in their place. Some dealers, who will be at the sale anyway, are willing to provide this service for a percentage of the "hammer" price.

Catalogs can vary wildly when it comes to technical accuracy and how they judge condition. Find out who the cataloger is. Is he/she an arms expert or an art school intern with a strong interest in abstract expressionism?

Does all of this mean that you should pass on an item you really want because the catalog and conditions of sale aren't perfect? Of course not, but you should learn these things before you bid, or you may end up disappointed.

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